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I have a Shorty DWG DP and a Catted MP, car is stg2 now.
I plan on getting the LC1 but do not have a bung for it. I do have a bung for the existing O2 (before the cat) thats is occupied by the stock O2.

I have two choices and like to know your opinion which is the best.

1. replace the OEM O2 with the LC1 and use one of the two outputs of the LC1 for OEM input and the other for logging or display.
- Can this be done and is it an easy DIY (running the wires for the stock input, errors, etc,..)

2. Drill and weld an additional bung on the MP near the joint of the DP because my DP is DWG and already ceramic coated. and its harder to get to.

thanks in advance

you could replace the rear 02 sensor with the wideband and use the analogue output to simulate the narrowband as suggested. I had a bung welded in next to the factory rear sensor for the wideband and this works really well, and I don't have to mess about with any wires. The bung doesn't cost very much extra, and I think it is even supplied if you buy the LC-1 kit with the sensor.

The analogue output wires of the LC-1 run along with the power and earth wires so you would have to run some lengths of wire either to extend the power and earths or extend the analogue output backwards (because the power and earth would normally be inside the car).

swifty wrote:you could replace the rear 02 sensor with the wideband and use the analogue output to simulate the narrowband as suggested. I had a bung welded in next to the factory rear sensor for the wideband and this works really well, and I don't have to mess about with any wires. The bung doesn't cost very much extra, and I think it is even supplied if you buy the LC-1 kit with the sensor.

The analogue output wires of the LC-1 run along with the power and earth wires so you would have to run some lengths of wire either to extend the power and earths or extend the analogue output backwards (because the power and earth would normally be inside the car).

whats your recommendation ?
im just trying to get the best solution with the least hassle
putting in a bung is not the easiest because have to remove the mp and get it welded but can be done. I dont know how to weld. Yes LC1 comes with a bung

Personally I would remove the mid pipe and have the bung welded in. You have to get under the car no matter what and the mid pipe isn't very difficult to remove. Remember to get the bung fitted so that the sensor will be as upright as possible when installed.

Or take it as an opportunity to get a decat pipe and have the bung welded in to that prior to fitting.

i went with a catted MP intentionally so prob not want to go decat
Ill look under to see where i can get it placed and thats the route I will probably go

If you think it's easier - I actually just removed the factory o2 sensor from the mid pipe and replaced it with the LC-1 bosch sensor. You need to keep the factory sensor plugged in to avoid a CEL for low heater circuit and cut the ECU sensor wire to use as he connect to the 0-1v output of the LC-1.

hammerhead1 wrote:If you think it's easier - I actually just removed the factory o2 sensor from the mid pipe and replaced it with the LC-1 bosch sensor. You need to keep the factory sensor plugged in to avoid a CEL for low heater circuit and cut the ECU sensor wire to use as he connect to the 0-1v output of the LC-1.

please clearify thanks
1. oem o2 plugged in as in elec con plugged in but not in the exhaust path ???? why ?
2. why not use the lc-1 output for the OEM input