Enginuity tuning guidelines

User topics relating to software that provides a tuning UI to alter ECU code and data

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Enginuity tuning guidelines

Postby crispyduck » Sat Nov 26, 2005 12:54 pm

I'm starting to use Enginuity on my EDM MY03 2.0 Impreza WRX and planning on something simple to start with. I have a good technical aptitude but have not performed any specific 'mapping' before and would appreciate any guidance on my question below.

I currently run a Dawes set at around 1.1 bar (~16 psi) which does it's best to regulate boost with as much on tap as early as possible - making every day drive great. My newage modifications are described here for more detail.

My embryonic idea is that I should be able to do away with my Dawes by adjusting the stock boost map, as seen through Enginuity, to achieve the same boost targets for the standard OEM boost controller.

Q1. In principle the Dawes simply has a fixed boost target (in my case 16psi). Forgetting other factors like fine tuning the boost increase to stop spiking and assuming fueling already compensates, etc. could one simply set the entire boost map to 16psi target and that’s the same as me running my Dawes? Obviously I would work out a better map to more effectively (than the Dawes) manage a constant boost.

Q2. Can my stock boost controller cope with 16 or so psi? I assume it can given that companies like ECUTek make a living out of this – tweek the map using existing OEM kit.

Q3. I've seen lot's of information on the 'net regarding different ways to map. Can anyone with experience in this area point me at any information sources YOU would trust? Bad advice here would not be good!

Q4. I'll be writing up my experiences on this in a technical article within which I would like to document the ‘things to watch out for'. By this I mean, with a wide open throttle (WOT) diagnostics run say in 3rd and 5th in front of you, what danger signs should you be looking out for?

An agreed ‘safe’ set of rules would be great which we could all translate in to values, as seen in diagnostics, for each Impreza variant. I fully understand there are plenty of variables to take in to account and a safe map in one country might not be another simply due to environmental factors like temperature and altitude. By way of an illustration we could be agreeing and recording information like this:

Generic Rules (example only - data not verified):
* Knock Correction (°BTDC) - on WOT should progressively increase from zero to a max of 9. May decrease by up to 3 at high end of the rev range. Any negative number is bad. *** describe here how one can correct this e.g. reduce boost ***
* Fuel Injector #1 Duty (%) - increases in steps. Should be up to 100% for modified cars, anything more than this then you might want an upgraded fuel pump....
* others…

Specific Rules (EDM 2.0 MY03 WRX)
* Mass Air Flow (g/s) - should increase steadily from around 111.65 up to 213.34. Should not do more than xxx.xx and if it does yyy then you're in trouble, etc.
* Air/Fuel Sensor #1 (AFR) - on WOT should be 11.25. Warning signs are xxxxx.
* others…

Anyone else think this is worth the effort putting together? If so, I’m prepared to gather it all up an publish it one place where anyone can edit/correct it.

Thanks for listening (if you’ve got this far!)
-Steve.
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Postby calvinc » Sun Nov 27, 2005 11:28 pm

Q1. In principle the Dawes simply has a fixed boost target (in my case 16psi). Forgetting other factors like fine tuning the boost increase to stop spiking and assuming fueling already compensates, etc. could one simply set the entire boost map to 16psi target and that’s the same as me running my Dawes? Obviously I would work out a better map to more effectively (than the Dawes) manage a constant boost.
boost control on these cars is tricky. the boost map is not your concern (plot the map to the exact boost pressures you require), the initial and maximum wastegate duty cycle maps are where the trick lies. it takes some time of playing with these to get the curve right. too high an initial value and it spikes bringing down the rest of the map. too little and you get lag. another trick is to change the stock boost control solenoid. replace this with the Perrin EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid). i have had great success with this replacement. it works quicker and more reliably than the stock part ever could.

Q2. Can my stock boost controller cope with 16 or so psi? I assume it can given that companies like ECUTek make a living out of this – tweek the map using existing OEM kit.
it can but the stock part doesnt work quick enough.

Q3. I've seen lot's of information on the 'net regarding different ways to map. Can anyone with experience in this area point me at any information sources YOU would trust? Bad advice here would not be good!
what exactly are you after? tune in the following order:
1) get fueling right using a wideband AFR meter (LM-1 is a great piece of kit!)
2) set your boost. boost is best set when its cold. if you do it when the ambient temperature is warm you will get spiking and surging when it gets cold again. prepare for some long nights! :-)
3) set timing. i recommend buying a knock link if you want to get the most out of your timing setup. tune to just before the onset of det.
4) lastly do the cam timing. this is a black science and i havent begun to play with this yet.

Q4. I'll be writing up my experiences on this in a technical article within which I would like to document the ‘things to watch out for'. By this I mean, with a wide open throttle (WOT) diagnostics run say in 3rd and 5th in front of you, what danger signs should you be looking out for?
once you've set up the fueling with the wideband dont worry about that again. keep an eye on whatever parts of the map you modify. do the changes 1 step at a time. things to always watch though - advance multiplier, knock correction, absolute boost (relative only reads up to 1.27b).

Generic Rules (example only - data not verified):
* Knock Correction (°BTDC) - on WOT should progressively increase from zero to a max of 9. May decrease by up to 3 at high end of the rev range. Any negative number is bad. *** describe here how one can correct this e.g. reduce boost ***
* Fuel Injector #1 Duty (%) - increases in steps. Should be up to 100% for modified cars, anything more than this then you might want an upgraded fuel pump....
* others…

* the amount of knock correction applied is determined by the 'knock correction' map within the ECU and the advance multiplier. the AM works as a % value to decide how much of the KC map value to apply. if your max KC value is 12 in the map and the AM is 16 you will get 12. your value on 9 probably only applies to your specific KC map.
* -ve KC...either reduce boost or timing. its your call to decide how much of either you want to run. without compressor maps for the IHI range of turbos being available to the public, its difficult to determine what are efficient levels of boost for these turbo's.
* i would'nt run more than 90% IDC. higher than that then possibly lean it out if you can or buy larger injectors.
* upgraded fuel pump is an essential requirement.

Specific Rules (EDM 2.0 MY03 WRX)
* Mass Air Flow (g/s) - should increase steadily from around 111.65 up to 213.34. Should not do more than xxx.xx and if it does yyy then you're in trouble, etc.
* Air/Fuel Sensor #1 (AFR) - on WOT should be 11.25. Warning signs are xxxxx.
* others…

* MAF readings are dependant on your boost setup. be careful not to exceed the limits of the actual sensor though. it can be rescaled within the ECU if you fit a larger MAF housing. this is tricky! most should be able to read 300g/s before they are maxed on the stock diameter.
* forget using the stock AFR sensor

the nature of these ECU's is that we have to adjust, flash and then test. without realtime maps the tuning process is an extremely long 1 depending on how much experience you have. ideally we need realtime maps for boost, wastegate, fuel and timing. this will drastically reduce the time taken to get a good state of tune.

a trick to get the IAM up to 16 - once you have flashed the car or reset the ECU drive it slowly to a long stretch of road. put it in a high gear (3rd on the 5-speed, 4th on the 6-speed), start from 2000RPM and give it throttle. regulate the boost at about 1b with the throttle all the way to redline. you will have an AM of 16 in no time. :-)

calvin.
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Postby qoncept » Mon Nov 28, 2005 4:12 am

replace this with the Perrin EBCS (electronic boost control solenoid). i have had great success with this replacement. it works quicker and more reliably than the stock part ever could.

GM also has a part originally used on the GMC Syclone that people have used with success. I was planning on using it before I decided to stick to STX. Look around on nasioc for it -- they cost about $50.
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Postby Jeramie » Mon Nov 28, 2005 1:35 pm

"a trick to get the IAM up to 16 - once you have flashed the car or reset the ECU drive it slowly to a long stretch of road. put it in a high gear (3rd on the 5-speed, 4th on the 6-speed), start from 2000RPM and give it throttle. regulate the boost at about 1b with the throttle all the way to redline. you will have an AM of 16 in no time."

I've done this many times while logging, and I generally hit 16 before I get 3,000 rpms (starting at 2,500 in 5th). I Don't think there is any need to run to redline.
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Postby crispyduck » Fri Dec 02, 2005 1:48 pm

Calvinc,

Thanks for your detailed response. I had not even considered replacing the stock boost control solenoid. I had considered an uprated fuel pump though.

I'm new to mapping and gathering information slowly. I always like to understand the technical details and wondering at what point things need changing. The boost solenoid seems an easy one, as you say, faster to react means tighter control.

Upgraded fuel pump (higher pressure) seems to be a safety measure commonly adopted when tuning which I'd love to understand better. Assume I'm only looking to up boost to just under 1.2 bar and make minor adjustments to suit. In the following scenario do you really need an uprated fuel pump? If yes, at what point would you not need one?

Scenario: On WOT in 3rd on a cold day, if my timing increases steadily as does knock correction, IAM is on 16, injector duty steadily rises right up to 100% duty at max revs, AFR does down to a steady 11.25.

Sorry about all the questions - I did say I'm still learning....

-Steve.
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Postby crispyduck » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:14 pm

Jeramie wrote:"a trick to get the IAM up to 16 - once you have flashed the car or reset the ECU drive it slowly to a long stretch of road. put it in a high gear (3rd on the 5-speed, 4th on the 6-speed), start from 2000RPM and give it throttle. regulate the boost at about 1b with the throttle all the way to redline. you will have an AM of 16 in no time."

I've done this many times while logging, and I generally hit 16 before I get 3,000 rpms (starting at 2,500 in 5th). I Don't think there is any need to run to redline.


Jeramie,

Thanks for the information. I only learnt this neat trick a few days ago from a guy on the Tari Racing forum. I added a Scoobypedia technical artical called ECU Fast Learning Trick to cature this one.

-Steve.
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Postby cboles » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:32 pm

You can also alter the initial IAM value in ROM or set the current value in RAM. It is a good idea to the let the ECU adjust it as it sees fit though.

Colby
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Postby Jeramie » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:32 pm

crispyduck wrote:
Thanks for the information. I only learnt this neat trick a few days ago from a guy on the Tari Racing forum. I added a Scoobypedia technical artical called ECU Fast Learning Trick to cature this one.

-Steve.


Alot of the write ups I have read make it alot harder than it needs to be! Enjoy.
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Postby Jeramie » Fri Dec 02, 2005 2:39 pm

cboles wrote:You can also alter the initial IAM value in ROM or set the current value in RAM. It is a good idea to the let the ECU adjust it as it sees fit though.

Colby


Thats a pretty neat idea! At least if your IAM isn't bouncing all over the place.
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