openecu.org

NeverLies wrote:You have a white connector near the 2 green ones. There are 4 wires on it. Two yellow, one red and one black. Connect yellow together and black with red.

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thank you

i have try, so wrx2002 don't work. wrx2004 don't work
so i have disconnected green test connector but don't work also
my car is an STI bug eye (my02)
maybe is my simple k-line interface that don't work

Must use a Colby HW interface to do dump as other signal are needed
A pulse signal is given on L line (true Colby ?) and regulated +12v is avaible also on this interface.

Simple k line like andrewwhitaker or jeffobd2 will not work for this.

Spiider wrote:Simple k line like andrewwhitaker or jeffobd2 will not work for this.

where i may find schematics for add "extra part" (the part that k-line not have) so it will work ?

open source schematics

May someone post here a log of commun ication during dump process with wrx2002 mode ? (don't have access to my car yet and first dump made without logging )

colby,

are you aware that this process of downloading the ROM image also resets your ECU? is it a part of your kernel code to reset the ECU? clear out the RAM after loading your kernel?

if its not your kernel then it could possibly be a result of putting the ECU into diagnostics mode - green connectors?

calvin.

sorry - i didn't think to mention that. the kernel is downloaded into RAM - the same RAM where learned ECU parameters are. the act of downloading a kernel causes the ECU to clear the (now invalid) learned data the next time it starts. with some extra work, it may be possible to restore a RAM snapshot so that nothing is lost. typically, you are actually reflashing the ECU when loading a kernel though, and you want to have a ECU reset to start learning your changes.

After the reflash you can force the ECU into fast learning mode by holding it at a steady 2500 rpm and a little boost. You will then see the ignition 'advance multiplier' go up to max. 16. When using the appropriate diag -tool.
Normally this process takes a very long time to complete.

Flashing "learned" data could be handy. For example, haveing a learned profile for race gas, and you fill up before a race.

After the reflash you can force the ECU into fast learning mode by holding it at a steady 2500 rpm and a little boost. You will then see the ignition 'advance multiplier' go up to max. 16. When using the appropriate diag -tool.
Normally this process takes a very long time to complete.

i was busy with long-term testing of fuel additives. learned KC, fuel trim, etc. reset brought that to a rather abrupt stop...will have to start again.

calvin.

I've been reading this thread althought I find it a bit confusing. Am I going to need a "Flash Block" to Flash? I was a little confused by this so I decided to go out to the car and look under the dash. What I found is a little alarming



See the two wires floating with out a connector? Is that normal?

I'm sure the two green connectors and the white connector are the connectors everyone is refering to in this thread?

Secondly, did you guys find a source for these "Flash Block/Connectors". If not I'm sure I could handle that. If they can't be sourced, we can have them made in out factory in china. If they are infact needed of course!

I've never seen wires floating without a plug anywhere. I think they have pulled out of one of the connectors.

What are their colors, we can figure them out from that.

You don't need a flash block.

Just take some 20 gauge wire and crimp on a 0.250" male "blade" connector onto each end and jump the wires in the block, make two of these jumpers if you have a my2004+.

Once the blades are in tightly, just leave them in, they do no harm. Mine is jumpered all the time.

The green plugs you have to undo after flashing or dumping. They are the test mode connectors.

"I've never seen wires floating without a plug anywhere. I think they have pulled out of one of the connectors. "

Ugggh! I really don't like my dealership. I bought this car brand new and they are the only ones to work on it besides me! So if this is wrong, I'm going to be forced to blame it on them. lol. When I get done work I will take a closer look to see if I can figure out where they came out of (and if I can what color the wires are). Thanks for your help.

I took another quick glance. Looks like both wires are black with red strip. doesn't seem any of the connectors are missing wires? Any ideas. (It's really tight under there, hopefully I will get a chance to grab a flash light and take a real good look today).

Both are black with a red stripe? Hmm, time to dig out the schematics.

I'll see what I can find.